Jan. 14 - met John last night in Kilembe. He came i around 7:30 and we chatted a while before both going to bed. He has no interest in the summit but rather in nature photography. He has an SLR with a tripod & has a particular interest in mammals although he has low interest of seeing any in the Rwenzori. He is a teacher with an aversion to urban areas. He has been teaching in the Falkland Island for 4 years now and it was interesting talking to him about the politics and life in the Falklands.
Got up at 5:30 this morning & my watch alarm does work. Got picked up at 5:45 & we drove to Q.E. Park. (we were in a van and drove over the community built park shown earlier). Paid my park dues and we went on a game drive which meant that we went on a drive for a couple of hours looking for game. Our best luck was at the beginning when we saw a male and female lion maybe 75 metres away.
Later saw lots of kopi (gazelle/deer like),
water buffalo, wart hogs,
waterbuck
and an elephant. When we were driving down the long gravel road to where we will be based from I saw a hippo only a few metres from the road. Short, heavy with a great sense of power.
Got registered at my hostel where warthogs roam the grounds. There are also elephants wandering around that excite only the tourists like me.Fortunately the local wildlife no matter how fierce looking or obviously powerful is considered as harmless. Had a good and cheap lunch at a restaurant overlooking Kazinga channel & then took a boat cruise down the Kazinga channel. I don't think I can adequately describe it. Hundreds of cape and wood buffalo,
hundreds of hippos
including young hippos and one dead hippo - killed by lions and still serving as their snack bar.
Several groups of elephants at waters edge.
Innumerable birds, none of which I knew and many quite spectacular.
Crocodiles, waterhogs. All within aprox. 20-30m and all in an hour and a half. Then I go to dinner at the restaurant across the road from my hostel and (1) I photograph warthogs from my table not more than 10 m away (2) I walk aroound to the backyard of the restaurant & photograph an elephant going through the garbage (3) strange birds about a metre high that I saw in the Kazinga channel are hanging around the outdoor dining area despite one staff member's efforts to chase them away.
What a day.
(Talking to Joshua, my guide in the Rwenzori, last night about different priorities in building houses. He didn't understand a house built with wood. Houses built with concrete will stop bullets & then with iron bars on the windows there is some security. He is serious. He asks if I have iron bars on my windows. I say no and He wonders if I feel safe. I say yes. My concern is not bullets but insulation.)
Went to the toilet for a piss before sleep & didn't use the flashlight Red ants! Ouch! Took off my pants & a couple guys helped me get rid of the ants. Told me to leave pants outside & ants will leave. I want to make sure they do and have to find out how.
Jan. 16 - Visited a fishing village. The men take their "canoes" with nets out in the evening and return in the morning with their catch including lungfish - an odd looking fish.
Went then to a salt lake where salt is produced in evaporating tanks (?). I found it quite interesting and would think the basic process hasn't changed in a long time. I understand that salt has been produced from this lake for hundreds of years.
Our car got a flat so I am having a quiet afternoon & we will look for game this evening. (In this area the banded mongoose evidently has a good relationship with the warthog cleaning its fur of troublesome insects.)
Went looking for leopards and didn't see any. More elephants. Still impressive but not the first I've seen anymore. Supposed to be a party at the restaurant and I was invited but it was a quiet affair. ended up talking to a Swedish woman who cycled from Entebbe & was going next to the Rwenzori and then cycling down to Kigali (Rwanda). Been in Africa 6 times, 15 countries & other travels as well. She and her husband have a business supplying aquarium fish.
Jan 16 - Up early & dropped off Baruke swapping him for someone whose name I didn't catch. Took pictures of the very scenic gorge where the chimpanze tracking occurs. Chimp tracking costs $50 and I wasn't motivated. Went looking for baboons quite unsucessfully but saw lots of quite cute small monkeys & took pics that I hope will turn out.
Below is one of the warthogs that wandered around
Went for lunch at the Kingfisher Lodge. Great views, nice food & distinctly upmarket from my hostel but lacking elephants, warthogs & large strange birds. Had an interesting conversation with two young Scottish Jehovah's Witnesses. Too close to my seeing the Book of Mormon to be mere coincidence!! Came back to the hostel and sorted out the additional $40 park fee that Baruke said had to be paid. it doesn't and won't. Up fairly early tomorrow morning for a few modest activities on the way to Kilembe.
Jan 17 - Back at the Trekker's hostel after the obligatory equator pics
& settling up with Bruke. On the way back to Kilembe Baruke stopped the car and asked if I wanted to see the springs which were evidently somewhere to the side of the road. I figured why not and said yes. The springs were hot springs with about 15 people in them. Someone suggested I take off my socks and shoes and test the waters. I took off my socks & shoes and rolled up my pants as far as I could & waded in & sat on a wet log with several other people. While I was chatting with one guy another guy came up & offered to massage my legs and feet. it felt good.
Jan. 18 - Went on a community walk today which involved walking uphill & gaining about 1,350 m while learning about a local village & what they grow.
It was good to learn that Rwenzori Trekking Service (RTS) is making substantial contributions to building local schools especially as it has only been operating for 4 years. Before leaving this AM met people going out on treks. 4 older people from the UK - two couples - one couple involved in helping Ugandan beekeepers & the other couple along for the trip. Then 4 guys arrived. A tall lean older guy with an outfit that included a shoulder patch for the 'Green Cross". He was going to the summit to survey the glacier which is shrinking substantially. Green Cross is an environmental organization. With him & going up the mountain are his equipment including a generator to ensure his drown has the power it needs. Also included is a member of his group who is French and a genuine Chamonix mountain guide. I am not sure how the porters will get the generator up the mountain but I am sure they will. Tomorrow breakfast & then the bus to Kampala. Monday a bit of shopping and getting sorted out.
Oh yes I came down the mountain today with some Kilembe copper ore. An old guy I met coming down the mountain the mtn insisted on pictures & exchanging email addresses. he heard I was Canadian & I think he thought I was connected to the original owner of the mine - Falconbridge - a Canadian company.
Jan. 19 - Got to Kampala late afternoon after a 7 1/2 hour ride with the first 3 1/2 hours of my feet until a seat opened up. Seatmate hit me up to buy some charity crafts. We'll see. At the hostel we were hit up by Simon for Mission for Uganda who wanted me and a Swedish guy to come over and give a talk to some Ugandan street kids. What would I say that would be relevant? He said it would be. I asked John (owner of the hostel & RTS) and he said they just wanted to get us over there & hit us up for $ which wouldn't be spent well.
Jan 20 - no problem arranging tours. I buy phone time for the guy at the desk & he helps me make calls. Going on walking tour tomorrow AM & will arrange slum and boda boda tours as well as stay at Wildlife Education Centre in Entebbe.
Rafting - be ready 7AM Sunday.
Will take too long to get new glasses made but he may be able to fit old lenses in new frames in an hour.
So you meet people when travelling and are involved with them for 1/2 hour helping them find a tire or a couple of days trekking together and then you never see them again.
Met Larry from Nova Scotia who, with his son, flew into Cape Town & bought 2 used used BMW 650s and rode up here to Kampala. His son is in Nairobi & going to continue north thru Ethiopia, Sudan etc as he wants to see his girlfriend in Germany. Max (locally situated US engineer/entrepreneur connected Larry with someone in Nairobi who may be able to help larry's son get a new 19" tire which is what he needs & is hard to find. It seems Larry writes travel articles for Cdn Biker. have to check them out. Larry started working at an HBC post in the far north & ended up working for the govt in the economic development.
Jan 21 - Got to post office before nine to meet woman from Kampala Walks. Boda boda trip to main post office was interesting especially when he kept going pas the post office on Kampala Road. With the help of a couple of locals I got him turned around & all was good. went on a long walk which started slow cause of the rain. Good walk. When we were downtown guide took my camera & took lots of pics so I wouldn't be hassled. Lots of pics of Owino Market & organized chaos of Old Kampala.
I am grateful for the pics as I could never describe those scenes without pics.We went then to a very large mosque and after doing the guide thing she mentioned that she herself was a muslim and would appreciate some time to pray which I was totally fine with.
Read that one of the two theatre groups I am interested in is doing a 4 hour play Saturday and Sunday. Evenings don't work & I don't want to see a 4 hour play. Maybe National Theatre?
Jan 22 - Cultural entertainment last night consisting of a large group of about 20 musicians, singers and dancers performing enthusiastically for more than two hours for an appreciative crowd of hostels guests & locals. Great fun!
Got up fairley early & met my Kampala Walks guide (Lucky) at the post office when she was meeting her next client. Bought a T-shirt & took some flyers from her to put in the hostel. Got my glasses, old lenses from broken glasses in new frames & went on the internet. Found out about the rafting, National Theatre etc and that pics of me are already on Kampala Walks facebook page. Not going on boda boda toour as most of the stuff on that tour I have already seen on the Walks tour. Sent a reservation request to the Wildlife Education Centre in Entebbe. Walked back to the hostel and chatted with Max a young US engineer with his business in Uganda. Developed a solar process to purify water and sold that company. Now working on an institutional stove that will use much less fuel. Showed me a video he took of a lava lake in Congo & talked of a type of lake there which has an immense amount of methane at the bottom of the lake held down by the pressure of the water above. This particular lake is below the volcano and on rare occasions the methane can be ignited by in immense explosion.
Jan 23 - went to the nearby night market for dinner last night. Skewers of unknown meat, slabs of pineapple. Must return & ask about taking a picture. Lots of fun. Lazed about for a while this AM & then caught a boda boda to the Pioneer Mall where I used the internet and got a fine haircut for 10,000 shillings ($4). Hanging out this afternoon and found out I can rent a bike helmet and I will do that tomorrow. Do my boda travel tommorow and organize Saturday. Met a young UK woman who is travelling and volunteering in Uganda for a year and who plans to join the British Navy. Middle aged German guy who had travelled in Turkey, Bolivia & Mongolia.
Jan 24 - Rented a helmet & took a boda to Garden City mall looking around and buying only a paper and some ground nuts. Boda to the National Museum & ended up chatting with an American woman and two guys behind the counter at the gift counter. Bought several cards that one of them had made. Interesting and attractive. The American woman, Ann, was telling the creator in practical and realistic terms how to take his artwork to the next level. This evening I got sorted out. Up early Sunday for rafting & then slum tour on Monday. To Entebbe Tues AM providing I get the confirmation I have requested. Sat. evening the Night Market & maybe pics.
Met a young female med student frm New Mexico taking training in Manchester. She is on her way to Kasese to fulfil an elective requirement by working in the hospital in Kasese for 2 months.
Jan 25 - lazy easy day. Reading & getting organized. Went to the Mall for internet and found the power off. While relaxing was approached by a young guy from an orphanage (maybe). It appears the came to the hostel looking for muzungu (white people) & the women who work at the hostel told him off letting him know that what he was doing was completely unnaceptable and innapropriate.
I will bargain with boda drivers but not too hard unless I think they are quite out of line the prices generally are cheap. Some long term travelers seem to measure all costs against the cheapest anywhere and so a 7 hours 300 + mile bus trip for $12 isn't that cheap as it would only be ..... in Indonesia or India. Seems a bit unfair to reduce all travel to least expensive.
Jan 26 - early start when large numbers of young volunteers who had been out at the bar late got up, not quietly, at 4:30 for some reason. They were quite unnecessarily loud so I got up and reminded them that there were people trying to sleep and could they please be quieter. They were somewhat. Couldn't get back to sleep and pot picked up for rafting a bit after 7. Safety exercises reminded me that my days of comfort and proficiency in the water are past, long past. Raft tipped over completely on the last rapid before lunch - a Class 5 rapid. I was scared and forgot the clear and careful instructions of the raft guide. I was under and came up and then under again. Didn't bring my knees up to my chest to protect my legs & banged my right foot but not bad. After lunch I went in an accompanying boat powered by one guy with sweep oars. Went through the same rapids in the afternoon but not always on the same line and never in danger of tipping. Enjoyed the ride and the conversation. Cold rainy & windy after lunch but going through rapids was good as water of Nile was warm.
Jan 27 - chatted with Swedish Jan and Max the local engineer til past midnight. I made a slighting remark about the Ugandan government and Max pointed out that it compared favourably with the governments of the adjoining countries. Good point. Went to the internet cafe in the AM and decided that I didn't want to go on the slum tour today. Depressing and I don't want to experience something else to donate to. Joe at the reception desk helped me confirm my reservation at the Wildlife Centre. Gave my guidebook to some young people who didn't have one. Looking forward to the Wildlife Centre and then London. Enjoyed talking to young couple from London. He is originally a barber and now and accountant as well. She is Cambridge grad in Middle Eastern studies. He is originally from Iraq. They are on their honeymoon which is a 6 month trip with wedding gifts going for special parts of the trip. Sounds like they are having a great time. Nice, smart and practical.
Jan 28 - Got away from Kampala with no problem & I am staying at the Wildlife Education Centre in Entebbe. Lots of cool animals, friendly staff.
I can check out of my room tomorrow & leave my bags in the office til I am ready to go to the airport in the evening. I can leave the centre tonight when it is closed and come back later. No problem so long as i have my key and receipt. I'm just relaxing and reading in a rustic cafe in the refuge overlooking Lake Victoria. Beautiful day. So I went up to Entebbe (business area) for a walk around and dinner. Neither took long. Earlier I bought some attractive souvenirs/gifts. I was just relaxing & writing inmy journal when I was joined by a young guy who was apparently curious about me and Canada.All Ok til he asked me for my phone # which didn't make a lot of sense so I shut down the conversation. Lots of small black face monkeys wandering around with many young. Very cute especially the very young &when they play very athletically rolling around in the grass & doing great flips. It seems at least some adult males have scrotums that are robin's egg blue. It is amazing to see the young ones clinging to their mom's from underneath while the mum climbs or scrambles across a step tile roof.
Did a donation to the Wildlife Ed centre which they appreciated. Its kind of cool to be sleeping in the Wildlife Centre with all the animals.
Jan 29 - Enjoyed wandering around the wildlife centre in the morning before it opened. My bag was getting a bit heavy with gifts/souvenirs so I gave away books and sunscreen. Going to be a relaxing day and the staff are arranging a ride to the airport for me. Finished my last book and hung out with the staff. Then off to the airport with lots of time.
Jan 30 - 6:08 PM I'm in my hostel after a day that started yesterday morning. Very beat but I am in my hostel and found some reading material that didn't cost too much.An issue with changing my Ugandan shillings that I may be able to sort out. A good night's sleep and all will be good in my world!
Jan 31 - Its 4:10 and I am sitting in the hostels cafe enjoying an americano.Outside the cars all have their lights on and there is a cold rain falling. It looks cold and miserable outside and I feel warm & comfortable inside. No luck dealing with Ugandan shillings.Bought books and found that Wolf Hall isn't playing in London. Confirmed details of free tours of national gallery etc. Met one of my roomates. He is a 45ish former US stockbroker currently a standup comedian. Interesting.
Sat Feb 1 - Sunny this AM and I should have had a camera when I walked down to Leicester Square. Nice light. From now on I always carry my camera. Had breakfast/lunch with the US comedian & a guy from India (?) who was trained as a lawyer and is now working as a trainee chef in one of Gordon Ramsay's restaurants. Got a ticket tonite for a farce based on the recent scandal of UK politicians abusing their expense allowances. Should be fun. Good news is that Cheryl is going to Golden on the Friday & will give me a ride so I have to take the bus home from Calgary. Great!
Sunday Feb 1 - up early and made arrangements t meet Sam at 4 PM to go to the Hari Krishna temple for dinner. Finished reading my book and left it in the lounge for someone else to pickup. Went over to Charing Cross Road to have lunch in the Crypt below St.Martin in the Fields church. Good atmosphere and good food at a reasonable price. I liked it. Streets in the area were all closed due to the Chinese new Year & there were many many people about. walked over to Trafalgar Square to see the entertainment but far too many people so I walked thru St. James park and over Westminster bridge. The sidewalk on the bridge was about 4 m wide and very crowded. I saw at least 3 games of "which of the 3 cups is the pea under?" being played on the sidewalk with betting. Walked along the south embankment past the London Eye.
Spent about an hour browsing an open air book sale and found some books. Went to the National Theatre and found out I could get a "returned" ticket to Lear but the process was uncertain and time consuming. No thanks.Went to the Hari Krishna feast. Interesting. Found I would like what was preached if it was a philosophy and not a religion.
Feb 3 - bought a ticket for Spamalot this evening and will be at 1/2 price ticket booth tomorrow morning for a ticket for Weir. I've lots of theatre booked and many other possibilities. Went on a London Walks tour of Westinster Abbey. Impressive and incredible and so much history and beauty that I could only absorb a small amount. the Tour was good but could only touch the high points.
feb 4 - Enjoyed Spamalot - not great but fun. Bought a ticket for "The Weir" for tonight. Sounds like a very good play and not one that I am already familiar with. Coffee in the Crypt and then the one hour free tour of the National Gallery. Then wandered aimlessly the streets and alleys of Soho. Fun.
Feb 6 - Yesterday was the day of the long long walk with cold rain and wind for much of it. Went looking for Liverpool Stn for a walking tour of the East End. At 10:40 I could see that I wasn't going to to get their in time for the 11:00 Am tour start so I changed my plan & found the Barbican where I have two shows to see. Must get there early to find actual theatre in complex! Walked down to Thames Path & then over the Millenium Bridge to the Globe Theatre (Exhibition tour) & back across the Millenium Bridge to the North Embankment & to Leicester Square and then decided to walk over to a theatre in Sloan Square. Unknowingly I took the long way walking along the Thames to the Chelsea bridge and then to Sloan Square then to Victoria Station then to Westminster Abbey then to Trafalgar Square and then back to my hostel. Sore feet and tired. Good late cheap lunch at my favourite pasta place on Marchmont Street. Then back to the West End for Jude Law in Henry V. - Powerful, impressive and intelligent.
Feb 7 - Laundry & checked out. Visited the Foundling museum & liked it. Handel was a predecessor to Bob Geldorf and Bono etc as an artist supporting good causes. Back to my favourite pasta place and then I could check in again. No rain.
Feb 8 - Went to Billy Elliot which was a great musical. 3 rows from the stage and next to a creepy guy who had been hundreds of times and seemed to have a special interest n he young male lead. Walked back to the hostel and met 3 new room mates - 2 of them from Lebanon. 1/2 their country is refugees - Palestine, Iraq and Syria.In the words of one of them their country is fucked and they can't remember when it wasn't.
Jan 9 - Matinee performance of Cirque d' Soleil today. Don't know how long it will take to walkover to the Albert Hall so I will leave early. I haven't walked that way before. Not too far and I had lots of time for Hyde Park. Checked out Speakers Corner. Not very busy or exciting. Maybe too early in the day or maybe the weather was too blustery. Who knows. Walked slowly around the Serpentine (lake)
and checked out the Albert Memorial. Bizarrely amazing.
And so to the Albert Hall. The Cirque show was great and quite unlike anything I have seen before as was the Albert Hall.
Jan 10 - Quiet morning and then walked over to the Tate Britain. Took a free tour of the Tate Britain but didn't like the tour so much. Didn't like the guide's approach and point of view. Left the gallery and walked across the Vauxhall bridge to the south side of the Thames. I walked over to the Globe but stopped to checkout the Florence Nightingale museum and checked out the book sale on the embackment further down. Saw Eileen Atkins doing Ellen Terry's "Shakespeare's Women" in the new Jacobean theatre at the Globe. Very very good. Came out of the Globe and walked across the bridge looking at the dome of St Paul's Cathedral which was lit up and looming above the business buildings beneath the dome.
Jan 11 - quiet and relaxing day. Repacked my stuff to make it easier t transport to ariport. Books in daypack so big bag is easier to lug around.Tube strike is "suspended" so I just have to carry my stuff across the street & down two blocks to the tube station, get a ticket on the Picadilly Line to Heathrow where I will epack again for Air Canada and get some sleep. Very happy the tube strike is not on! Caught a show " Jack Charles v. the Crown" at the Barbican. Jack is a senior citizen/singer/ex-junkie/actor/ex-petty criminal and the show was more interesting and enjoyable than the much more elaborate Midsummer Night's Eve that I saw last week at the larger of the Barbican's theatres. walked back to hostel with somewhat sore feet which I think is because of the extensive walking on pavement. Over to St Pancras and the Picadilly Line and then to heathrow and I am on my way home.
Feb 14 - 6:50 AM at Cheryl's - checked out Wed AM from the hostel and put my stuff in the storage room, giving stuff I wasn't taking with me to the hostel staff. Went over to the Valtoro/Roxy's Cafe for my last pasta arrabiata. Check for their website/facebook page. Walked down past the British Museum, down Charing Cross Road & thru Leicester Square to the Theatre for "One Man Two Guvnors". Good British farce. Back to the hostel for last time. left about 7 pm for the tube station and Heathrow. Good big ed pack is heavy. get to Heathrow and repack. had a mocha upstairs & bedded down on the most comfortable benches in Terminal 3 which are in the Virgin Air section. Check in at 6 AM and fly at 9 AM. 4 hour layover in Toronto. Very smooth and quick thru customs. Very happy to see Cheryl at the airport. Wired and Tired.
Got up at 5:30 this morning & my watch alarm does work. Got picked up at 5:45 & we drove to Q.E. Park. (we were in a van and drove over the community built park shown earlier). Paid my park dues and we went on a game drive which meant that we went on a drive for a couple of hours looking for game. Our best luck was at the beginning when we saw a male and female lion maybe 75 metres away.
Later saw lots of kopi (gazelle/deer like),
water buffalo, wart hogs,
waterbuck
Got registered at my hostel where warthogs roam the grounds. There are also elephants wandering around that excite only the tourists like me.Fortunately the local wildlife no matter how fierce looking or obviously powerful is considered as harmless. Had a good and cheap lunch at a restaurant overlooking Kazinga channel & then took a boat cruise down the Kazinga channel. I don't think I can adequately describe it. Hundreds of cape and wood buffalo,
hundreds of hippos
Several groups of elephants at waters edge.
Innumerable birds, none of which I knew and many quite spectacular.
Crocodiles, waterhogs. All within aprox. 20-30m and all in an hour and a half. Then I go to dinner at the restaurant across the road from my hostel and (1) I photograph warthogs from my table not more than 10 m away (2) I walk aroound to the backyard of the restaurant & photograph an elephant going through the garbage (3) strange birds about a metre high that I saw in the Kazinga channel are hanging around the outdoor dining area despite one staff member's efforts to chase them away.
What a day.
(Talking to Joshua, my guide in the Rwenzori, last night about different priorities in building houses. He didn't understand a house built with wood. Houses built with concrete will stop bullets & then with iron bars on the windows there is some security. He is serious. He asks if I have iron bars on my windows. I say no and He wonders if I feel safe. I say yes. My concern is not bullets but insulation.)
Went to the toilet for a piss before sleep & didn't use the flashlight Red ants! Ouch! Took off my pants & a couple guys helped me get rid of the ants. Told me to leave pants outside & ants will leave. I want to make sure they do and have to find out how.
Jan. 16 - Visited a fishing village. The men take their "canoes" with nets out in the evening and return in the morning with their catch including lungfish - an odd looking fish.
Went then to a salt lake where salt is produced in evaporating tanks (?). I found it quite interesting and would think the basic process hasn't changed in a long time. I understand that salt has been produced from this lake for hundreds of years.
Our car got a flat so I am having a quiet afternoon & we will look for game this evening. (In this area the banded mongoose evidently has a good relationship with the warthog cleaning its fur of troublesome insects.)
Went looking for leopards and didn't see any. More elephants. Still impressive but not the first I've seen anymore. Supposed to be a party at the restaurant and I was invited but it was a quiet affair. ended up talking to a Swedish woman who cycled from Entebbe & was going next to the Rwenzori and then cycling down to Kigali (Rwanda). Been in Africa 6 times, 15 countries & other travels as well. She and her husband have a business supplying aquarium fish.
Jan 16 - Up early & dropped off Baruke swapping him for someone whose name I didn't catch. Took pictures of the very scenic gorge where the chimpanze tracking occurs. Chimp tracking costs $50 and I wasn't motivated. Went looking for baboons quite unsucessfully but saw lots of quite cute small monkeys & took pics that I hope will turn out.
Below is one of the warthogs that wandered around
Went for lunch at the Kingfisher Lodge. Great views, nice food & distinctly upmarket from my hostel but lacking elephants, warthogs & large strange birds. Had an interesting conversation with two young Scottish Jehovah's Witnesses. Too close to my seeing the Book of Mormon to be mere coincidence!! Came back to the hostel and sorted out the additional $40 park fee that Baruke said had to be paid. it doesn't and won't. Up fairly early tomorrow morning for a few modest activities on the way to Kilembe.
Jan 17 - Back at the Trekker's hostel after the obligatory equator pics
& settling up with Bruke. On the way back to Kilembe Baruke stopped the car and asked if I wanted to see the springs which were evidently somewhere to the side of the road. I figured why not and said yes. The springs were hot springs with about 15 people in them. Someone suggested I take off my socks and shoes and test the waters. I took off my socks & shoes and rolled up my pants as far as I could & waded in & sat on a wet log with several other people. While I was chatting with one guy another guy came up & offered to massage my legs and feet. it felt good.
Jan. 18 - Went on a community walk today which involved walking uphill & gaining about 1,350 m while learning about a local village & what they grow.
It was good to learn that Rwenzori Trekking Service (RTS) is making substantial contributions to building local schools especially as it has only been operating for 4 years. Before leaving this AM met people going out on treks. 4 older people from the UK - two couples - one couple involved in helping Ugandan beekeepers & the other couple along for the trip. Then 4 guys arrived. A tall lean older guy with an outfit that included a shoulder patch for the 'Green Cross". He was going to the summit to survey the glacier which is shrinking substantially. Green Cross is an environmental organization. With him & going up the mountain are his equipment including a generator to ensure his drown has the power it needs. Also included is a member of his group who is French and a genuine Chamonix mountain guide. I am not sure how the porters will get the generator up the mountain but I am sure they will. Tomorrow breakfast & then the bus to Kampala. Monday a bit of shopping and getting sorted out.
Oh yes I came down the mountain today with some Kilembe copper ore. An old guy I met coming down the mountain the mtn insisted on pictures & exchanging email addresses. he heard I was Canadian & I think he thought I was connected to the original owner of the mine - Falconbridge - a Canadian company.
Jan. 19 - Got to Kampala late afternoon after a 7 1/2 hour ride with the first 3 1/2 hours of my feet until a seat opened up. Seatmate hit me up to buy some charity crafts. We'll see. At the hostel we were hit up by Simon for Mission for Uganda who wanted me and a Swedish guy to come over and give a talk to some Ugandan street kids. What would I say that would be relevant? He said it would be. I asked John (owner of the hostel & RTS) and he said they just wanted to get us over there & hit us up for $ which wouldn't be spent well.
Jan 20 - no problem arranging tours. I buy phone time for the guy at the desk & he helps me make calls. Going on walking tour tomorrow AM & will arrange slum and boda boda tours as well as stay at Wildlife Education Centre in Entebbe.
Rafting - be ready 7AM Sunday.
Will take too long to get new glasses made but he may be able to fit old lenses in new frames in an hour.
So you meet people when travelling and are involved with them for 1/2 hour helping them find a tire or a couple of days trekking together and then you never see them again.
Met Larry from Nova Scotia who, with his son, flew into Cape Town & bought 2 used used BMW 650s and rode up here to Kampala. His son is in Nairobi & going to continue north thru Ethiopia, Sudan etc as he wants to see his girlfriend in Germany. Max (locally situated US engineer/entrepreneur connected Larry with someone in Nairobi who may be able to help larry's son get a new 19" tire which is what he needs & is hard to find. It seems Larry writes travel articles for Cdn Biker. have to check them out. Larry started working at an HBC post in the far north & ended up working for the govt in the economic development.
Jan 21 - Got to post office before nine to meet woman from Kampala Walks. Boda boda trip to main post office was interesting especially when he kept going pas the post office on Kampala Road. With the help of a couple of locals I got him turned around & all was good. went on a long walk which started slow cause of the rain. Good walk. When we were downtown guide took my camera & took lots of pics so I wouldn't be hassled. Lots of pics of Owino Market & organized chaos of Old Kampala.
I am grateful for the pics as I could never describe those scenes without pics.We went then to a very large mosque and after doing the guide thing she mentioned that she herself was a muslim and would appreciate some time to pray which I was totally fine with.
Read that one of the two theatre groups I am interested in is doing a 4 hour play Saturday and Sunday. Evenings don't work & I don't want to see a 4 hour play. Maybe National Theatre?
Jan 22 - Cultural entertainment last night consisting of a large group of about 20 musicians, singers and dancers performing enthusiastically for more than two hours for an appreciative crowd of hostels guests & locals. Great fun!
Got up fairley early & met my Kampala Walks guide (Lucky) at the post office when she was meeting her next client. Bought a T-shirt & took some flyers from her to put in the hostel. Got my glasses, old lenses from broken glasses in new frames & went on the internet. Found out about the rafting, National Theatre etc and that pics of me are already on Kampala Walks facebook page. Not going on boda boda toour as most of the stuff on that tour I have already seen on the Walks tour. Sent a reservation request to the Wildlife Education Centre in Entebbe. Walked back to the hostel and chatted with Max a young US engineer with his business in Uganda. Developed a solar process to purify water and sold that company. Now working on an institutional stove that will use much less fuel. Showed me a video he took of a lava lake in Congo & talked of a type of lake there which has an immense amount of methane at the bottom of the lake held down by the pressure of the water above. This particular lake is below the volcano and on rare occasions the methane can be ignited by in immense explosion.
Jan 23 - went to the nearby night market for dinner last night. Skewers of unknown meat, slabs of pineapple. Must return & ask about taking a picture. Lots of fun. Lazed about for a while this AM & then caught a boda boda to the Pioneer Mall where I used the internet and got a fine haircut for 10,000 shillings ($4). Hanging out this afternoon and found out I can rent a bike helmet and I will do that tomorrow. Do my boda travel tommorow and organize Saturday. Met a young UK woman who is travelling and volunteering in Uganda for a year and who plans to join the British Navy. Middle aged German guy who had travelled in Turkey, Bolivia & Mongolia.
Jan 24 - Rented a helmet & took a boda to Garden City mall looking around and buying only a paper and some ground nuts. Boda to the National Museum & ended up chatting with an American woman and two guys behind the counter at the gift counter. Bought several cards that one of them had made. Interesting and attractive. The American woman, Ann, was telling the creator in practical and realistic terms how to take his artwork to the next level. This evening I got sorted out. Up early Sunday for rafting & then slum tour on Monday. To Entebbe Tues AM providing I get the confirmation I have requested. Sat. evening the Night Market & maybe pics.
Met a young female med student frm New Mexico taking training in Manchester. She is on her way to Kasese to fulfil an elective requirement by working in the hospital in Kasese for 2 months.
Jan 25 - lazy easy day. Reading & getting organized. Went to the Mall for internet and found the power off. While relaxing was approached by a young guy from an orphanage (maybe). It appears the came to the hostel looking for muzungu (white people) & the women who work at the hostel told him off letting him know that what he was doing was completely unnaceptable and innapropriate.
I will bargain with boda drivers but not too hard unless I think they are quite out of line the prices generally are cheap. Some long term travelers seem to measure all costs against the cheapest anywhere and so a 7 hours 300 + mile bus trip for $12 isn't that cheap as it would only be ..... in Indonesia or India. Seems a bit unfair to reduce all travel to least expensive.
Jan 26 - early start when large numbers of young volunteers who had been out at the bar late got up, not quietly, at 4:30 for some reason. They were quite unnecessarily loud so I got up and reminded them that there were people trying to sleep and could they please be quieter. They were somewhat. Couldn't get back to sleep and pot picked up for rafting a bit after 7. Safety exercises reminded me that my days of comfort and proficiency in the water are past, long past. Raft tipped over completely on the last rapid before lunch - a Class 5 rapid. I was scared and forgot the clear and careful instructions of the raft guide. I was under and came up and then under again. Didn't bring my knees up to my chest to protect my legs & banged my right foot but not bad. After lunch I went in an accompanying boat powered by one guy with sweep oars. Went through the same rapids in the afternoon but not always on the same line and never in danger of tipping. Enjoyed the ride and the conversation. Cold rainy & windy after lunch but going through rapids was good as water of Nile was warm.
Jan 27 - chatted with Swedish Jan and Max the local engineer til past midnight. I made a slighting remark about the Ugandan government and Max pointed out that it compared favourably with the governments of the adjoining countries. Good point. Went to the internet cafe in the AM and decided that I didn't want to go on the slum tour today. Depressing and I don't want to experience something else to donate to. Joe at the reception desk helped me confirm my reservation at the Wildlife Centre. Gave my guidebook to some young people who didn't have one. Looking forward to the Wildlife Centre and then London. Enjoyed talking to young couple from London. He is originally a barber and now and accountant as well. She is Cambridge grad in Middle Eastern studies. He is originally from Iraq. They are on their honeymoon which is a 6 month trip with wedding gifts going for special parts of the trip. Sounds like they are having a great time. Nice, smart and practical.
Jan 28 - Got away from Kampala with no problem & I am staying at the Wildlife Education Centre in Entebbe. Lots of cool animals, friendly staff.
I can check out of my room tomorrow & leave my bags in the office til I am ready to go to the airport in the evening. I can leave the centre tonight when it is closed and come back later. No problem so long as i have my key and receipt. I'm just relaxing and reading in a rustic cafe in the refuge overlooking Lake Victoria. Beautiful day. So I went up to Entebbe (business area) for a walk around and dinner. Neither took long. Earlier I bought some attractive souvenirs/gifts. I was just relaxing & writing inmy journal when I was joined by a young guy who was apparently curious about me and Canada.All Ok til he asked me for my phone # which didn't make a lot of sense so I shut down the conversation. Lots of small black face monkeys wandering around with many young. Very cute especially the very young &when they play very athletically rolling around in the grass & doing great flips. It seems at least some adult males have scrotums that are robin's egg blue. It is amazing to see the young ones clinging to their mom's from underneath while the mum climbs or scrambles across a step tile roof.
Did a donation to the Wildlife Ed centre which they appreciated. Its kind of cool to be sleeping in the Wildlife Centre with all the animals.
Jan 29 - Enjoyed wandering around the wildlife centre in the morning before it opened. My bag was getting a bit heavy with gifts/souvenirs so I gave away books and sunscreen. Going to be a relaxing day and the staff are arranging a ride to the airport for me. Finished my last book and hung out with the staff. Then off to the airport with lots of time.
Jan 30 - 6:08 PM I'm in my hostel after a day that started yesterday morning. Very beat but I am in my hostel and found some reading material that didn't cost too much.An issue with changing my Ugandan shillings that I may be able to sort out. A good night's sleep and all will be good in my world!
Jan 31 - Its 4:10 and I am sitting in the hostels cafe enjoying an americano.Outside the cars all have their lights on and there is a cold rain falling. It looks cold and miserable outside and I feel warm & comfortable inside. No luck dealing with Ugandan shillings.Bought books and found that Wolf Hall isn't playing in London. Confirmed details of free tours of national gallery etc. Met one of my roomates. He is a 45ish former US stockbroker currently a standup comedian. Interesting.
Sat Feb 1 - Sunny this AM and I should have had a camera when I walked down to Leicester Square. Nice light. From now on I always carry my camera. Had breakfast/lunch with the US comedian & a guy from India (?) who was trained as a lawyer and is now working as a trainee chef in one of Gordon Ramsay's restaurants. Got a ticket tonite for a farce based on the recent scandal of UK politicians abusing their expense allowances. Should be fun. Good news is that Cheryl is going to Golden on the Friday & will give me a ride so I have to take the bus home from Calgary. Great!
Sunday Feb 1 - up early and made arrangements t meet Sam at 4 PM to go to the Hari Krishna temple for dinner. Finished reading my book and left it in the lounge for someone else to pickup. Went over to Charing Cross Road to have lunch in the Crypt below St.Martin in the Fields church. Good atmosphere and good food at a reasonable price. I liked it. Streets in the area were all closed due to the Chinese new Year & there were many many people about. walked over to Trafalgar Square to see the entertainment but far too many people so I walked thru St. James park and over Westminster bridge. The sidewalk on the bridge was about 4 m wide and very crowded. I saw at least 3 games of "which of the 3 cups is the pea under?" being played on the sidewalk with betting. Walked along the south embankment past the London Eye.
Spent about an hour browsing an open air book sale and found some books. Went to the National Theatre and found out I could get a "returned" ticket to Lear but the process was uncertain and time consuming. No thanks.Went to the Hari Krishna feast. Interesting. Found I would like what was preached if it was a philosophy and not a religion.
Feb 3 - bought a ticket for Spamalot this evening and will be at 1/2 price ticket booth tomorrow morning for a ticket for Weir. I've lots of theatre booked and many other possibilities. Went on a London Walks tour of Westinster Abbey. Impressive and incredible and so much history and beauty that I could only absorb a small amount. the Tour was good but could only touch the high points.
feb 4 - Enjoyed Spamalot - not great but fun. Bought a ticket for "The Weir" for tonight. Sounds like a very good play and not one that I am already familiar with. Coffee in the Crypt and then the one hour free tour of the National Gallery. Then wandered aimlessly the streets and alleys of Soho. Fun.
Feb 6 - Yesterday was the day of the long long walk with cold rain and wind for much of it. Went looking for Liverpool Stn for a walking tour of the East End. At 10:40 I could see that I wasn't going to to get their in time for the 11:00 Am tour start so I changed my plan & found the Barbican where I have two shows to see. Must get there early to find actual theatre in complex! Walked down to Thames Path & then over the Millenium Bridge to the Globe Theatre (Exhibition tour) & back across the Millenium Bridge to the North Embankment & to Leicester Square and then decided to walk over to a theatre in Sloan Square. Unknowingly I took the long way walking along the Thames to the Chelsea bridge and then to Sloan Square then to Victoria Station then to Westminster Abbey then to Trafalgar Square and then back to my hostel. Sore feet and tired. Good late cheap lunch at my favourite pasta place on Marchmont Street. Then back to the West End for Jude Law in Henry V. - Powerful, impressive and intelligent.
Feb 7 - Laundry & checked out. Visited the Foundling museum & liked it. Handel was a predecessor to Bob Geldorf and Bono etc as an artist supporting good causes. Back to my favourite pasta place and then I could check in again. No rain.
Feb 8 - Went to Billy Elliot which was a great musical. 3 rows from the stage and next to a creepy guy who had been hundreds of times and seemed to have a special interest n he young male lead. Walked back to the hostel and met 3 new room mates - 2 of them from Lebanon. 1/2 their country is refugees - Palestine, Iraq and Syria.In the words of one of them their country is fucked and they can't remember when it wasn't.
Jan 9 - Matinee performance of Cirque d' Soleil today. Don't know how long it will take to walkover to the Albert Hall so I will leave early. I haven't walked that way before. Not too far and I had lots of time for Hyde Park. Checked out Speakers Corner. Not very busy or exciting. Maybe too early in the day or maybe the weather was too blustery. Who knows. Walked slowly around the Serpentine (lake)
and checked out the Albert Memorial. Bizarrely amazing.
And so to the Albert Hall. The Cirque show was great and quite unlike anything I have seen before as was the Albert Hall.
Jan 10 - Quiet morning and then walked over to the Tate Britain. Took a free tour of the Tate Britain but didn't like the tour so much. Didn't like the guide's approach and point of view. Left the gallery and walked across the Vauxhall bridge to the south side of the Thames. I walked over to the Globe but stopped to checkout the Florence Nightingale museum and checked out the book sale on the embackment further down. Saw Eileen Atkins doing Ellen Terry's "Shakespeare's Women" in the new Jacobean theatre at the Globe. Very very good. Came out of the Globe and walked across the bridge looking at the dome of St Paul's Cathedral which was lit up and looming above the business buildings beneath the dome.
Jan 11 - quiet and relaxing day. Repacked my stuff to make it easier t transport to ariport. Books in daypack so big bag is easier to lug around.Tube strike is "suspended" so I just have to carry my stuff across the street & down two blocks to the tube station, get a ticket on the Picadilly Line to Heathrow where I will epack again for Air Canada and get some sleep. Very happy the tube strike is not on! Caught a show " Jack Charles v. the Crown" at the Barbican. Jack is a senior citizen/singer/ex-junkie/actor/ex-petty criminal and the show was more interesting and enjoyable than the much more elaborate Midsummer Night's Eve that I saw last week at the larger of the Barbican's theatres. walked back to hostel with somewhat sore feet which I think is because of the extensive walking on pavement. Over to St Pancras and the Picadilly Line and then to heathrow and I am on my way home.
Feb 14 - 6:50 AM at Cheryl's - checked out Wed AM from the hostel and put my stuff in the storage room, giving stuff I wasn't taking with me to the hostel staff. Went over to the Valtoro/Roxy's Cafe for my last pasta arrabiata. Check for their website/facebook page. Walked down past the British Museum, down Charing Cross Road & thru Leicester Square to the Theatre for "One Man Two Guvnors". Good British farce. Back to the hostel for last time. left about 7 pm for the tube station and Heathrow. Good big ed pack is heavy. get to Heathrow and repack. had a mocha upstairs & bedded down on the most comfortable benches in Terminal 3 which are in the Virgin Air section. Check in at 6 AM and fly at 9 AM. 4 hour layover in Toronto. Very smooth and quick thru customs. Very happy to see Cheryl at the airport. Wired and Tired.
